Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and lively culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city is little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always shaped its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – little-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to explore these stories and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
